Support

3 Support Entries

Please follow the below instructions carefully:

  1. Cooling unit for cold water (for both welding rollers):
  • The cooling emulsion must be changed yearly, but more preferably every 6 months. Follow the X7 manual if you have to change the emulsion !
  • The filter cartridge of 50 µm needs to be replaced monthly ! Follow the X7 manual if you have to the filter cartridge !
  • Check the level of the cooling emulsion on the internal tank. If you have to refill the tank, follow the X7 manual to get the correct mixing ratio for the emulsion, and fill the tank. Note: If the water level is too low, the chiller should show an error message, and the X7 should stop and show an error on the iPad !

 

  1. Cooling water / emulsion distribution station on X7:
  • Run some (5 to 10) can bodies and control the water pressure on the manometer: 5.0 bar is the min. required water pressure !
  • Run some (5 to 10) can bodies and control the water flow on the flowmeter S26 (2. From right side): 5.0 liter per minute is the min. water flow.
  • Note: The water pressure switch S120 is set to > 4.0 bar. If there is the error message “Error S120” on the iPad , first check the water pressure on the manometer, and if it’s below 4.0 bar check the cooling unit again !

 

  1. Weld roll ø 42 / 49 / 54 / 62 / 90 mm and lower weld arm:
  • It’s possible that the cooling circuit from waterflow meter S26 to lower weld roll, and back to the outlet on the water distribution, is blocked:

Take off the lower weld roll, unplug the grey water tube ø 10 mm labeled with “àWR” directly at the flow switch S26, and blow into the tube with air pressure. Check the out-going air-pressure at the free hole in the lower weld arm (supply for lower weld roll). If the circuit is free, you feel an equal air pressure (like on the output of the air gun) on your finger tip. If you recently took off the lower weld arm, there might be a problem with one or both o-ring seals between arm and upper bus bar:

 

Please check them if needed !

  • Now unplug the grey tube ø 10 labeled with “WR à” on the water distribution and blow into the tube with air pressure. Check the out-going air-pressure at the free hole in the lower weld arm (exit of lower weld roll). If the circuit is free, you feel an equal air pressure on your finger tip
  • If you re-install the lower weld roll again, make sure that the arrow “running / turning direction” is showing into the right direction.

Before re-connecting both grey tubes ø 10 mm, blow into one tube again by air-pressure, and feel the equal air-pressure on the other tube by your finger tip. If it’s ok, correctly connect both tubes again.

 

  1. Copper wire / copper wire profiling unit:
  • Measure the copper wire profile after the profiling unit on various positions (within around 300 mm). Check the correct width in the X7 manual. The tolerance must be within 0.03 mm !
  • Please check if the wire guiding wheel in front of the lower weld roll is broken. If it’s broken, replace it by a new one. Make sure you choose the correct size 1.90 or 2.30 mm !
  • Please check if the copper wire tension is correct. Set the correct tension according X7 manual !

 

  1. Welding parameters:
  • Please check the weld pressure. Set the correct welding pressure according X7 manual. The range should be between 40 and 50 daN.
  • Please check the welding frequency. Set the correct value according the recommendation in the iPad !
  • Please check the welding overlap. The welded overlap should be nosepiece overlap + 0.1 mm !
  • Check if the IR-Sensor graph of the Qualimaker 2™ on the iPad are within the correct range and straight, which means that the crown and exit conveyor settings are correct:

  1. Other possible errors:
  • If the copper wire gets burned, check if the upper and lower weld roll are touching each other without a blank between. Press the button on the main-aluminium plate to close the welding roller and test it.

=> How to adjust below, have a look at the manual!

Transformer step:             1 (if other is chosen, mention it)

Air supply:                           min. 4 bar and dry/clean! Check if water is in the tank, if yes, please mention
it, and if the filter is still in.
It may happen that an air regulator is damaged/not working properly, due to
water or dirt.

Copper wire profile:           2.05 +/- 0.03 mm

Welding roller grooves:      width 2.10 mm, depth 0.40 mm
Edges should not be sharp, grind them manually!

Welding speed:                    See display frequency inverter, 50 – 55Hz (10 – 12m/min)
Above 12m/min micro leakages can appear!

Welding pressure:               1.7 – 2.0 bar (35-40 daN/kg)

– Set the ball joints on both central pressure cylinder (piston in top position):
Measure from end of ball joint to the begin of piston, it must be 22 mm or until the steel bar (of pressure link) is laying parallel to the base alu-plate
=> Target: Distance between pressure link rollers and groove of clamp bar around 0.5 mm

– Z-bar must be mounted parallel to top alu-plate
=> Measure with depth gauge left and right!
=> Measure the isolation between Z-bar and top alu-plate!
– Precise guide-bar (underneath Z-bar) must be positioned and mounted parallel to Z-bar => Measure with depth gauge left and right!

– Mount lower weld arm to Z-bar
=> Measure the isolation between Z-bar and lower weld arm
– Mount the lower weld roll, and set the height: Top point of weld roll (incl. copper wire) must be on the same height with center of Z-bar, or bottom side of upper Z-bar groove!
=> Depending on form of can body after welding!

– Move the upper excenter-shaft (rear axle of big alu-block which holds the upper weld roll), until the center of the upper weld roll stays around 1 – 2 mm behind the center of the lower weld roll
=> Helps to keep the overlap!

– Mount the small bearings on to inner and outer little shafts on the Z-bar
=> Lateral play of bearing shall be around 0.1 mm
– Mount the (brown) bottom base-plate onto both precise-carriages
=> Make sure that all 4 pins in the base-plate touch the precise-carriages inside!

– Start to mount the watercooled clamp-bars:
Place the outer / bottom clamp-bar ontop of bearings, move the bar forward and backward, and check whether the bearings are running freely in the groove
– Mount the alu-support between clamp-bar and bottom base-plate, and tight all four M6 screws slightly. Move the carriage forward and backward, and tight the screws step by step.
=> Whenever the clamp-bar is tightened, and the carriage is moving forward and backward, there should no resistance be felt during movement!
– Same procedure with inner bottom clamp-bar. Before lock the rear screws, mount the stainless steel plate on the front end of both bars and make sure that both bars are in line! Do not fully tight the M5 lock-nuts!

– Set the upper front pressure link:
Rear turning point must be free of play, see the assembling drawing for further information
– Tight the center grub screw M8, until they touch the Z-bar slightly
– Measure with depth gauge between front end of pressure link to Z-bar: Result should be 18.2 +/- 0.1 mm. If you have a different measure, change them by moving the grub screws.

– Place the outer upper clamp bar, move both sliding rollers from both pressure links into the groove, and tight both M6 screws on the rear vertical support rail. Measure between clamp bar and Z-bar should be 30.3 mm, see also in the assembling drawing. If not yet, loose the M6 screws and move the support again.
– Same procedure with inner upper clamp-bar.
– Connect the cylinder (piston in top position) wit the upper clamping bar, and adjust the ball joint until the distance between the upper and lower clamping-bar measures 1.0 +0.2/-0.0 mm
– Same setting to be done with the cylinder inside.
– If everything is fine the gap between the clamp bars in the front in and outside is also 1.0 +0.2/0.0 mm

– Finally check the clamping-force efficiency of the inner and outer clamping pairs: Air-pressure between 3 to 4 bars.
– Place a tin plate in the outer inner Z-bar groove, close the bars, and try to pull the tin plate out of groove by hand

=> The force on both sides should be as equal as possible.