6 Support Entries


  • Welding process starts but welding current is not constant. Finally the welding wire breaks.


Possible Causes & Resolutions:

  • Bad condition of the lower welding roller or upper roller head. In this case, the current only flows through the welding wire and no longer over the welding roller or upper roller head. The welding wire heats up and breaks. Exchange lower welding roller. If the problem still exists, replace the upper roller head.


  • Welding process starts but no welding current.

Possible Causes & Resolutions:

  • Condition of lower welding roll: Possibly the roll is worn out or mercury very old. Refill mercury or exchange lower welding roll.
  • Condition of upper roller head: Possibly the roller head is worn out or mercury very old. Refill mercury or exchange upper roller head.
  • Waterflow: The green button for welding current on/off must light up when the water flow is ok. If not maybe the water flow is to low. Check also the relay K21. If water flow is ok this relay has to be on.
  • Welding pressure switch S31: If welding rolls are closed the switch S31 do enable the welding current. If the welding pressure is adjusted to low or also to high the control do not enable the current. Do adjust the welding pressure correctly according manual.
  • All connections of current conductors on secondary side of welding transformer: All screws must be tightened. If there are signs of corrosion, disassemble parts and clean the contact surfaces.
  • Connection between head piece and lower welding arm: Remove the head piece and check the contact surfaces.


  • Fine-wire fuses F2, F3 and F4: This are located inside control. Check them with ohm meter and replace if necessary.
  • Transformer T4 (18-0-18V): Measure the outputs of small transformer inside control. The easiest way to do this is to measure it at the terminals of the WEC card. c32/c30 => 18VAC, c32/c28 => 18VAC, c28/c30 => 36VAC
  • WEC electronic card: Firmly inserted in the card holder?
  • Thyristor: Maybe thyristor module is broken.

Please follow the below instructions carefully:

  1. Cooling unit for cold water (for both welding rollers):
  • The cooling emulsion must be changed yearly, but more preferably every 6 months. Follow the X7 manual if you have to change the emulsion !
  • The filter cartridge of 50 µm needs to be replaced monthly ! Follow the X7 manual if you have to the filter cartridge !
  • Check the level of the cooling emulsion on the internal tank. If you have to refill the tank, follow the X7 manual to get the correct mixing ratio for the emulsion, and fill the tank. Note: If the water level is too low, the chiller should show an error message, and the X7 should stop and show an error on the iPad !


  1. Cooling water / emulsion distribution station on X7:
  • Run some (5 to 10) can bodies and control the water pressure on the manometer: 5.0 bar is the min. required water pressure !
  • Run some (5 to 10) can bodies and control the water flow on the flowmeter S26 (2. From right side): 5.0 liter per minute is the min. water flow.
  • Note: The water pressure switch S120 is set to > 4.0 bar. If there is the error message “Error S120” on the iPad , first check the water pressure on the manometer, and if it’s below 4.0 bar check the cooling unit again !


  1. Weld roll ø 42 / 49 / 54 / 62 / 90 mm and lower weld arm:
  • It’s possible that the cooling circuit from waterflow meter S26 to lower weld roll, and back to the outlet on the water distribution, is blocked:

Take off the lower weld roll, unplug the grey water tube ø 10 mm labeled with “àWR” directly at the flow switch S26, and blow into the tube with air pressure. Check the out-going air-pressure at the free hole in the lower weld arm (supply for lower weld roll). If the circuit is free, you feel an equal air pressure (like on the output of the air gun) on your finger tip. If you recently took off the lower weld arm, there might be a problem with one or both o-ring seals between arm and upper bus bar:


Please check them if needed !

  • Now unplug the grey tube ø 10 labeled with “WR à” on the water distribution and blow into the tube with air pressure. Check the out-going air-pressure at the free hole in the lower weld arm (exit of lower weld roll). If the circuit is free, you feel an equal air pressure on your finger tip
  • If you re-install the lower weld roll again, make sure that the arrow “running / turning direction” is showing into the right direction.

Before re-connecting both grey tubes ø 10 mm, blow into one tube again by air-pressure, and feel the equal air-pressure on the other tube by your finger tip. If it’s ok, correctly connect both tubes again.


  1. Copper wire / copper wire profiling unit:
  • Measure the copper wire profile after the profiling unit on various positions (within around 300 mm). Check the correct width in the X7 manual. The tolerance must be within 0.03 mm !
  • Please check if the wire guiding wheel in front of the lower weld roll is broken. If it’s broken, replace it by a new one. Make sure you choose the correct size 1.90 or 2.30 mm !
  • Please check if the copper wire tension is correct. Set the correct tension according X7 manual !


  1. Welding parameters:
  • Please check the weld pressure. Set the correct welding pressure according X7 manual. The range should be between 40 and 50 daN.
  • Please check the welding frequency. Set the correct value according the recommendation in the iPad !
  • Please check the welding overlap. The welded overlap should be nosepiece overlap + 0.1 mm !
  • Check if the IR-Sensor graph of the Qualimaker 2™ on the iPad are within the correct range and straight, which means that the crown and exit conveyor settings are correct:

  1. Other possible errors:
  • If the copper wire gets burned, check if the upper and lower weld roll are touching each other without a blank between. Press the button on the main-aluminium plate to close the welding roller and test it.

Download regrooving datasheet


Work: Alignment of the roller head

The center of the upper roller head must be approx. 4mm ahead of the center of lower roller head. This setting supports the achievement of accurate overlap during the welding process.


Switch off the air supply, the welding roller heads should touch each other.


Loose the chain tensioner.


Undo the 4 x M8 screws of the current band


Undo the 4 x M8 screws of the motor to reduce the tension of the timing belt.


Undo the 2 x M8 screws of the oscillator to loose the connection to the welding pressure.


Undo the 2 x M12 screws of the oscillator.


Adjust the oscillator, in order to achieve the offset of 4 mm (see explanation in the first frame).


Tighten the oscillator.


Question: Are both wires lined up accurately? If not, undo the oscillator once more to shift it slightly sideways.


IMPORTANT: Check if the welding roll touches the oscillator. If yes, adjust the welding roll sideways.


The remaining work is, to perform the reverse sequence of the procedure.

Machine basics:
– Overlap 6.0 mm
– Copper wire diameter 1.8 mm – Galvanized metals 0.7 mm

1. Maintenance:

1.1. Make sure the whole Z-bar area (also the inner part) is free of small swarfs, steel dust and other. This little dirt can reduce the function of several isolations, and the weld power starts to become uncontrolled! Sometimes more, sometimes less power could be the negative effect!

1.2. Run one or more metals without current, and feel any slight vibrations / acc – decelerations while moving forward!

2. First, basic adjustment:

2.1. Copper wire profile (width not thickness!) after the profiler must be between 2.20 – 2.25 mm. Use the delivered micro-meter to measure the copper wire, if needed adjust the profiler, see the manual.

2.2. Wire tension: On the main aluminium plate you see an air regulator. Set the pressure to 3.0 – 3.5 bar by turning the handle on top of air regulator. If the copper wire is running, the wire must be well tensioned. You can imagine, if the copper wire has a low tension, he likes to get welded with the metal. If the tension is to high, then the copper wire like to get stretched, and can break frequently.

2.3. Welding pressure: Close the welding wheels by turning the turn-switch on the panel. Near to the upper welding wheel you see a spring. Close to the spring you see an aluminium welding pressure. The lower end of the spring shows the value on the scale: Should be between 60 – 70 daN.

3. Second adjustment:

3.1. Start and end timing weld power: Both potentiometers should be zero. Weld a sample. Now you should have minimum 1 mm unwelded in the beginning / end. If not, adjust S63 and S64 until you see it. Now we are sure that the copper wire can not get damaged due to burned beginning / end!

3.2. Reduce weld power: Probably the weld power is to high. Reduce, and check if the welding is still enough, or the metals start to break off. Go back to origin value.

3.3. Increase welding pressure: Go up in 5 daN steps, and proof the metals. Target has to be, that the zinc – craters around the welded areas are getting reduced. This means that the metals got melted closer to their contact – point.

3.4. Increase weld speed: Turn the potentiometer 10 by 10 units (not over 30 for galvanized metals!), and weld some metals. Possibly you may adjust S63 and S64 again.

4. Others:

4.1. Two copper wires: If you can not get successful, use two copper wires (control also on the second wire the profile!), and weld some metals. If the wire breaks has stopped, send us more pictures of your last welded metals. Now you can continue your production, while we can rethink next steps to help you.

All Can Man content is now also available on the Soudronic Group website.
Where do you want to continue your journey?
All Can Man content is now also available on the Soudronic Group website.
Where do you want to continue your journey?