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German instruction: page 52 – 55
English instruction: page 110 – 113
French instruction: page 172 – 175
NOTE: There are two type of wire tension systems for the CM16:
Possible cause /checklist:
Possible problems, if the overlap function does not work!
Remove all eight screws of the upper and lower unit. Then you can take off the front part and replace the profiling rings.
Your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch may occasionally stop responding to buttons, switches, or touchscreen input and may exhibit one or more of these symptoms:
Troubleshooting touchscreen response
Use this article to troubleshoot the following Multi-Touch display (or touchscreen) response issues:
If your device is experiencing any of the symptoms listed above, try the following steps:
Tip: To isolate an issue related to a portion of the Multi-Touch display, follow these steps:
Problem: The waterflow LED is on during start up of production / The waterflow LED do switch off only if the button “production on” is pushed for a long time.
Lenze inverter current limit is adjustable in parameter C0022.
Sample: C0022 = 80%
C0410/011 = 203
This is a sample, where the synchronsation is too early. The blank hit the finger/dog of the body transport.
How is the distance between the clutchring and the switch?
Trigger the clutch by hand and check if the red LED light comes on.
This is the LED, which should light up.
Try if you can hold the polygon shaft by hand tightly and trigger the clutch and therefore an immediate machine stop.
If you need to alter the torque of the clutch, do the following:
Loose both black screws of the guiding channel.
Pull the channel to the back of the machine.
Now you can see the clutch.
The basic setting should be 70 NM – see the red mark.
Loose the countersunk screw and take the screw out.
Copper wire change from 1.38 to 1.24:
Please check following points on your CM16 welder:
Operating Manual CM16 Maintenance Book
Replace the belt dogs:
Turn the polygon shaft until the belt dog is easy accessable from side of the machine.
Loose the two screws on each belt dog.
Then replace the belt dogs, be careful that belt dog, is correctly placed in the timing belt, as shown in the picture.
Turn the polygon shaft until a belt dog is inline with reference 3.
Take off the bracket (see picture),in the back of the front plate.
Then mount the screw loosely to side plate of the synchrostar unit.
Slide the slot of the bracket around the crank handle and tighten the screw.
Now you have to release the tension of the synchrostar belt, by loosing the M12 screw.
Then release the tension of the body transport belts. The white arrow shows you where you can release the tension of the outside belt. The inner belt has the same feature.
Untighten the two set screws.
Loose sligthly the three M8 screws (1) first, then undo the M8 screw sligthly too (2). Now you can release the clamping force by turning the M8 nut (3) a little bit.
Now, you should be able to move shaft to the front of the machine and to replace both body transport belts.
Do not loose any other screws, as for example the red marked ones in the picture.
Scope of delivery:
1 – Insulation (over Z-bar) 2 – Insulation
3 – Cover insulation
4 – Z-bar
5 – Set of screws
Remove the guiding channel to side of the machine. Then remove the wire from the welding rolls and unlock the tooling plate and slide it to the front.
Remove the 8 screws (see arrows) from the welding arm.
Be aware that the screws at the inside are shorter than those at the outside. Do not loose the two o-rings in between.
Then undo the eight screws from the cover insulation. Get somebody to assist you to hold to welding arm (heavy).
Remove the Z-bar from the welding arm and clean the welding arm with a dry rag.
When you mount the new Z-bar with the insulation, make sure you put some grease on the surface of both insulations and align the Z-bar centered with the depth gauge to the welding arm.
Put also some grease all around these insulated screws.
When you mount the welding arm, do also align the arm properly with the depth gauge to the window.
This is the result of a wrong flexer setting!
Measure with a ruler the actual position of the flexing wedge.
On the other side of the flexer, you can alter the position of flexer with the M8 screw. Choose a lower position for less flexing.
With more flexing the sheet comes out of the flexer station with less prebending.
If you do less flexing, means that the sheet comes out of the flexer station with more prebending.
After adjusting the flexer, you might have to adjust the rounding slighty!
For more information regarding the flexer and rollformer setting check our manual book 2 chapter 5.4.
1 or 2 (sender/receiver) sensors are fitted behind the first pair of rollers to recognize double sheets.
Sensor in the lower part.
A pneumatic cylinder operates the ejection flap.
Setting the double sheet sensor
The evaluation unit for the double sheet sensor is located in either the control box (illustration) or in the immediate vicinity of the rollformer, on the feeder side.
To set the sheet thickness, take a single sheet and lay it on the support rails in front of the first roller pair. You can also open the roll- former and lay a sheet into the rear area by hand. Then close the rollformer again.
Now turn the single sheet back and forward in the first roller pair by hand with the help of the belt.
The two green LEDs „Power“ and „Relay“ should now be lit up on the evaluation unit.
If the red LED „Double sheet“ is lit up, you must carry out a correction.
Turn the left-hand screw „Thickness Adjust“ clockwise until the red LED goes out and the green LED „Relay“ lights up. Add 1-2 additional turns in the clockwise direction.
Now carry out the same procedure with two sheets (double sheet).
The red LED „Double sheet“ should now be lit up.
Adjustment of the light barrier distance to eject cylinder might be wrong.
Wrong adjustment of the transport belt speed.
The ejected can should whether touch the can before nor the following.
Eject pulse cylinder has to fit to production speed:
Recommendation: 150-200msfor<100cpm 100-150msfor100-200cpm
Place a canbody between the second light barrier and check the LED „LD3“ on the eject print (inside the Pacemaker).
Must be „ON“.
The autoreset needs to be “OFF”. Therefore the can memory will not be reset automatically.
NOTE: Only applicable for the model X8-350!
Report all steps, new or different settings, old and new production parameters (can size, cpm, weld speed, weld current, weld frequency, current wave-form and transformer step) for an easier overview and follow-up!
Open a new ticket and add your document!
Note on which tin-plate parameters (thickness, hardness, tin coating inside / outside, rolling direction, BA or CA, supplier, printed or not) such faults occur, and on which tinplates not!
Basic parameters & settings to be checked first
Checklist to avoid micro leaks
Micro leaks can occur within the seam and beside the seam – especially on cold-formed areas like necking, beading, flanging or seaming -, even if all above mentioned basic parameters & settings seems to be correct.
Micro leaks can have various sources: Wrong settings on the welder, tin-plate parameters which support such faults, worn or wrong machineries in the downline, or tin-plate parameters which do not fit to beader, necker, flanger and seamer.
For a better visual understanding put the faulty-can bodies in a water bath, and inspect the leaking area by a microscope. Store the pictures if possible!
We recommend following maintenance procedures:
Safety data sheets see below:
P03 = positioning countering error
Maintenance, cleaning and insulation check (can be used in general for any welder)
Tubes have to be insulated in the area of rollformer, to avoid any contact to the ground.
(In the area of the lower welding arm is a simple insulation not possible).
− Take off the grounding cable from the lower copper plate going to the welding transformer
(Do not forget to place back after you finish).
− Clean the whole secondary circuit as good as possible by rag and compressed air.
Blow from rollformer side towards overhead exit conveyor, to protect the bearings in the rollformer.
− Mount the Z-bar back into the arm and measure the insulation by Ohm-meter > 10 Mega Ohm!
Check also every bearing. Attention: Most of them have ceramic balls, marked by a red point!
Make sure you are using only stainless steel screws and washers and lubricate the threads again!