Support

37 Support Entries

Possible causes:

  • Check the blanc cutting tolerances and blank squareness.
  • Adjust the rollformer (roller shaft clearance and spring pressure) according to the manual.
  • Control if there is a high difference in the tin plate hardness, by rollforming 10 bodies without welding. Put them on the floor in line and compare the difference in the rollforming overlap.
  • Check if the destacking process is going well. Make sure the tin plate is guided tight, and the separating air is positioned well.
  • Control the timing of the tin plate transport in between two transport fingers.
  • Make sure that the guidance channel is properly adjusted. The intersection to the precalibration of the calibration crown is most important.
  • Check the position of each (inside and outside!) transport finger compared to rollformed canbody.
  • Check the offset of each finger pair itself. Move the canbody slowly forward (X1 and X6 by slow mode function) and observe eventual shaking of the canbody until the welding point.
  • If a third finger exists: The third finger must be 0.5 mm behind the upper main pusher fingers!
  • Reset the calibration crown completely. Make sure that each precalibration roller is turning easily! If needed lubricate their shafts slightly and clean the roller afterwards. Make sure that these rollers are as close as possible to each other!
  • Measure the speed of the flat belt in the calibration crown:
    The speed must be absolutely identical with the copper wire speed!
  • Measure the overtravel: Short can heights shall have 1 mm overtravel.
  • The center of the diabolo roller (equal to the center of calibration crown) shall be 1–2 mm before the welding center.
  • The fan unit can be removed. Check whether the fan is correctly mounted (screwed).
  • The fans can also be removed and cleaned if dirty.
  • Replace the defective fan unit!

 

Download PDF

Download PDF here

German instruction: page 52 – 55

English instruction:  page 110 – 113

French instruction:  page 172 – 175

NOTE: There are two type of wire tension systems for the CM16:

  • CM16 – 300/400 has two pressure gauges.
  • CM16 – 200 works with one pressure gauge and a spring tension system.

Possible cause:

  1. Try to move the tension cylinder / cylinders by hand back and forward, without air pressure and wire.
  2. Try to turn lower welding roll (without wire) by hand.
  3. Check the groove of the upper welding disc.
  4. Is the wire width correct?
  5. Adjust the pressure of the tension cylinder(s), read for more info here!

Possible cause /checklist:

  • Check all terminals at the Pacemaker board.
    • wait for 5 minutes after switching off the unit
  • Check welding sensor (position/exchange).
  • Check the piece counter in the display. If more canbodies are counted, than there are physically – there is a problem with the welding sensor.
  • Check the welding pressure: Is S31 always „ON“ (LED green)!
  • If the welding pressure is secured, you can bypass the signal with a trial jumper, see diagram page 2:
    • a) remove and insulate terminal 5 of the PM.
    • b) jumper terminal 1 > 5
      Do this only for the trial, need to be reversed afterwards!
  • Are the time settings t1 and t2 correct?
  • Is the weld power limiter switched „ON“? Which mode is chosen? Glueing?
  • If you can weld a canbody with only main current and the error occurs quiet often, you can try the following:
    • a) remove the welding sensor.
    • b) start production and cover the sensor by hand, as soon as canbodies are welded.
      Important: Switch “OFF” the sensor before you open the welding pressure!
  • Check if the wire has no dent’s (mechanical damage for example due to too big can gap).

Possible cause:

  • Check whether both pneumatic cylinders do have the correct air pressure:
    • a) Pneumatic cylinder for the profiling unit: 1.6 – 2.0 bar
    • b) Pneumatic cylinder for the wire chopper: 2.8 – 3.0 bar
  • Check whether sensor B1 and/or B2 touch the slant activation plate.
    • The sensor positions/heights are well adjusted, if the piston rod on each cylinder has about 10 – 15 mm remaining stroke left!
  • Exchange the sensors B1 and/or B2.
  • Check whether the plug or cable of B1 and/or B2 have any damage, or are not well connected to the frequency inverters.
  • Check whether, there is any error message on the frequency inverters U3, U4 and/or U6.
  • Check the mechanical play between both upper/lower brass guides (one for the profiling unit is mounted on the main alu-plate, the second is  mounted on the alu-plate above the rollformer) and the support of the idler wheels.
    • There must be a clearance of 0.3 – 0.5 mm on the whole stroke!
    • Use a feeler gauge to adjust the clearance.
  • Check the profiled copper wire width according manual.
    • If the width is unstable, the main bearings in the profiling unit might be damaged!
    • Take off the copper wire, and turn the motor through the fan impeller on top. If the bearings are broken you probably can feel it, or try to feel the bearing play, by moving the profiling rings up and down.
  • While the copper wire is off, check whether all idler wheels are turning well or not.
  • Check the clearance between both transport rings on the wire chopper according manual.
    • Basic setting: Clearance should have 50% of profiled copper wire width!

Possible cause:

  • Check your welder according check list Conical overlap / micro leaks
  • If your Pacemaker is programed to weld with sine wave (check the IBS), we can change to triangle wave form.
    • Please contact us for further instructions.

Possible cause:

  • Check the unprofiled copper wire in the drum: The copper might be already oxidized.
  • Is the welding current setting as usual, or is there any difference?
  • Check the water flow of the upper pendulum rollerhead, and also the lower welding roller.
  • Check the colour of the lower welding roller:
    • If the roller is yellow/blue/purple you should exchange the roller. There might be an internal defect. Send the roller to us including a correctly filled out performance sheet.
  • Run the welder after exchanging the roller and/or water flow check, and control, if there are any abnormal hot spots on the secondary circuit.

Important requirements:

  1. t2 must be always higher than t1 (t2 > t1).
  2. t2 and t1 must be set lower than 1 cycle time of the machine. For example, if the machine is running with 300 cans/min the cycle time is 200ms. Therefore, t2 and t1 must be set lower than 200ms.
  3. To do an overlap check set  “overlap check” to “ON”. The reduced current will be set automatically to 0A. In the same window you have an additional value. If you set this for example to 10ms you have more unwelded area at the beginning and end of can.NOTE: If you use “overlap check” function is not necessary to switch “Ired” to “ON”.


Possible problems, if the overlap function does not work!

  • If you can’t see the value t2 and t1, maybe the pacemaker is running with “Old” mode and not with “CMX” mode. Change in the setup “CT” from “Old” to “CMX”.
  • No input signal on input 4 (terminal 7 and 8 on pacemaker board). If machine is running, LED behind input 4 (clamp 7 and 8) must flashing. This is the cycle signal to start the timer t2 and t1 for the overlap check.

Remove all eight screws of the upper and lower unit. Then you can take off the front part and replace the profiling rings.

 

NOTE:
Be careful there are o-rings behind the front part.

 

In case you do not have the spare profiling rings, we recommend you to order the profiling disc complete, with carbide ring:

order no. 009904 (without cooling) order no. 011123 (with cooling)

depending on your configuration.

http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3281


Symptoms

Your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch may occasionally stop responding to buttons, switches, or touchscreen input and may exhibit one or more of these symptoms:

  • Does not return to the Home screen after you press the Home button
  • Does not wake from sleep after you press the Sleep/Wake button
  • Does not turn on (or power on) when you press any button
  • Does not start up past Apple logo
  • Appears frozen or unresponsive
  • Is unable to “Slide to Unlock” or “Slide to Power Off”


Resolution

  1. If a single application is not responding or stops responding when it opens, you can force it to close.
  2. If the device is unresponsive or if certain controls aren’t working as expected, restart your device.
  3. If the device remains unresponsive or does not turn on (or power on), reset your device.
  4. If there is no video or if the screen remains black, verify that the device has enough charge to turn on:
    1. Ensure that the iPad is connected to the USB Power Adapter supplied with the device.
    2. Let charge for at least twenty minutes, then see if it starts normally.
    3. If there is no image on the screen, press the Sleep/Wake button to attempt to wake the device.
    4. If the screen displays a red battery icon, continue charging the device until the battery is fully charged.

Troubleshooting touchscreen response

http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1827


Symptoms

Use this article to troubleshoot the following Multi-Touch display (or touchscreen) response issues:

  • Multi-Touch display (or touchscreen) does not respond
  • Portions of the Multi-Touch display do not respond
  • Multi-Touch display is very slow to respond
  • Multi-Touch response is erratic

Resolution

If your device is experiencing any of the symptoms listed above, try the following steps:

  1. Restart your device
    • Hold the On/Off button until “slide to power off” appears. Slide to power off your device. When it is off, press the On/Off button to turn it back on.
    • If you can’t restart your device, reset it by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for a least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
  2. Clean the screen with a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth.
  3. Avoid using the device while wearing gloves, with wet hands, or immediately after applying hand lotion.
  4. If you have a protective case, or if you are using a plastic sheet or film on the display, try removing them and testing the device without it.


Additional Information

Tip: To isolate an issue related to a portion of the Multi-Touch display, follow these steps:

  • Open the Maps application and double-tap each corner, then the center, to verify that it zooms in to each section.
  • If a specific area is affected in another application, note the location and try to verify touch functionality for that location in the Maps application.

Possible cause:

  • Sensor B62 damaged
  • Cable B62 damaged / wire break
  • Relay K33 damaged
  • Contacts 51 / 52 on contactor K1 damaged

Possible cause:

  • Wrong weld power limiter settings.
  • Tooling sensor B6 (sensor inside calibration crown) not adjusted well. Distance to can body to big.
  • Adapter cable between tooling sensor B6 and cable to control damaged / wire break.
  • Cable between adapter cable and control unit damaged / wire break.
  • Clamp nr.3 or clamp nr.5 on pacemaker electronic board not fixed well.
  • Welding pressure adjusted to low and pressure switch S31 do switch off current.
  • Upgrade over voltage protection for welding pressure switch not installed (Varistor on supply of S31). Voltage peak on 24Vdc can create short dropouts of S31.
  • Welding pressure switch S31 damaged.
  • Contact on welding pressure relay K19 damaged / in bad condition.
  • Contact on welding current on contactor K13 damaged / in bad condition.

Problem: The waterflow LED is on during start up of production / The waterflow LED do switch off only if the button “production on” is pushed for a long time.


Possible cause:

  • Waterfilter dirty
  • Flowswitch dirty or damaged
  • Waterpressure switch dirty or damaged
  • To low water pressure => check the cooling unit / the filter on the cooling unit
  • Check the inverter U1 if there is a red LED on.
  • Check if the feeder can be turned by hand easily.
  • Switch the machine off and on and check again.
  • If it’s okay until you start the machine again and the motor stop again, check the parameters of U1 (C0022 = current limit)

Lenze inverter current limit is adjustable in parameter C0022.

  • If the inverter reaches the limit it has to stop and go into trip mode.
  • If the inverter is in trip mode then it has to be switched off and on to reset it.

Sample: C0022 = 80%
C0410/011 = 203

This is a sample, where the synchronsation is too early. The blank hit the finger/dog of the body transport.

 

Here the synchronsation is too late. The blank came in alright, but the finger/dog came too early to do the start the transport.

 

Here a different angle of the damaged blank (late synchronisation).

 

 

How is the distance between the clutchring and the switch?
Trigger the clutch by hand and check if the red LED light comes on.

 

This is the LED, which should light up.

 

Try if you can hold the polygon shaft by hand tightly and trigger the clutch and therefore an immediate machine stop.

 

If you need to alter the torque of the clutch, do the following:

 

Loose both black screws of the guiding channel.

 

Pull the channel to the back of the machine.

 

Now you can see the clutch.

 

The basic setting should be 70 NM – see the red mark.

 

Loose the countersunk screw and take the screw out.

 

Turn the clutch clockwise with a special tool or a drift punch and a plastic hammer.

 

You can reduce or increase the torque by steps off 5 Nm, in order to fit the countersunk screw in.
(Picture shows a reduction to 50 Nm)

 

Now push back the channel back into the machine and tighten the black screws.

Copper wire change from 1.38 to 1.24:

  1. Before you change to the smaller copper wire, measure the wire elongation, main welding current and welding pressure and make a note.
  2. Make sure that the burrs on the tin-plates are well, try to minimize (damage of copper wire!).
  3. Leave both pressures on the air regulators (wire tension) as they are. 1.8 bar for the profiling unit, and 3 bar for the wire chopper.
  4. A new groove profile for welding rollers are necessary:
    Width 1.80mm, depth 0.30mm. We offer the correct regrooving tool!
  5. Profile of copper wire: 1.75 +0.02/ -0.02
  6. Reduce the distance (gap) between the transport rings of the wire chopper from 0.35 to 0.25mm.
  7. Check and adjust the nosepiece height with the delivered carbide gauge plate (in the black tool box)
  8. Measure the wire elongation after change to 1.24mm copper wire, main welding current, welding pressure and compare with results before! Wire elongation might be slightly greater, but within 2%, no problem.

Please check following points on your CM16 welder:

  • Adjust the tooling with the mandrel. All precalibration rollers have to touch the mandrel slightly.
  • The center of the calibrating crown (diabolo roller) has to be between 1.0 to 2.0mm behind the center of the lower welding roller! Please measure carefully.
  • Check the angularity of all 3 axes of the main calibrating tool plate.
  • Check the height of the front carbide Z-bar (nose- / headpiece). If it is too deep, then it could cause a different overlap.
  • Check the cutting tolerances of the tin plates according our specifications on our webpage.
  • Adjust the welding pressure on the precise air regulator to 2.8 – 3.0 bar.
  • Check the wire gap within 5 – 10 canbodies: The tolerance should not be higher then 1mm.
  • Control the tin layer on the upper and lower copper wire, it has to be in the center.
  • Rollforming has to be parallel, and the blank edges has to be around 5mm overbended.
  • Check the overtravel according the rule on the carriage.
  • Check whether the idler wheel in front of the lower welding roll is in correct position, or whether the circlip is missing (X-plane only)!

Operating Manual CM16 Maintenance Book

Click here

  1. Welding speed set too low. Cans are hitting other cans (tin mould?)
    • Remedy:
      • Recalculate correct speed (see manual CM16 / chapter 6.6). Set welding speed 2-3 m/min higher than calculated. If this then works get in touch with CANMAN.
  2. The guide tool is set too narrow.
    • Remedies:
      • Reset guide tool using the calibration arbor.
      • Check cuts.
  3. Upper inner transportation finger is brushing against the catch rail plate.
  4. Insert brace is brushing against the catch and guide channels.
  5. Synchronisation is not correct (see manual CM16 / chapter 7).
  6. Re-adjust the safety clutch slightly – ATTENTION: max. 10% higher!
    If the clutch is already adjusted beyond 100%, then it may possibly no
    longer engage correctly and is faulty (contact CM).
  7. Switch off the machine completely and turn the crank by hand. There must be no increased resistance at any point.
    • Remedies:
      • Lubrication
      • Loosen belt and turn once more (possibly a problem with the motor).
      • Dismantle the whole unit
      • Replace running roller
      • Replace shaft bearings

Possible cause:

  • With the spring loaded welding pressure system, the upper welding roll should be pushed down by the air pressure cylinder.  When the welding rollers are closed, the cylinder should be released and should not additionally pushing the spring. Because then the welding pressure will be too high.

Corretive:

  • Doublecheck the cylinder settings for the lift-up and the drop-down position of the welding roll. Adjust the setting, there might be a loose setting screw!

Replace the belt dogs:
Turn the polygon shaft until the belt dog is easy accessable from side of the machine.

 

Loose the two screws on each belt dog.

 

Then replace the belt dogs, be careful that belt dog, is correctly placed in the timing belt, as shown in the picture.

 

NOTE:
If you need to place the belt dogs, in a new location, due to a damaged belt area, make sure that the distance x is always the same around the entire belt loop.
Also make sure that inside and outside belt dogs are corresponding to each other!

Exchange the body transport belt

 

Turn the polygon shaft until a belt dog is inline with reference 3.

 

Take off the bracket (see picture),in the back of the front plate.

 

Then mount the screw loosely to side plate of the synchrostar unit.

 

Slide the slot of the bracket around the crank handle and tighten the screw.

 

Now you have to release the tension of the synchrostar belt, by loosing the M12 screw.

 

Then release the tension of the body transport belts. The white arrow shows you where you can release the tension of the outside belt. The inner belt has the same feature.

 

Untighten the two set screws.

 

Loose sligthly the three M8 screws (1) first, then undo the M8 screw sligthly too (2). Now you can release the clamping force by turning the M8 nut (3) a little bit.

 

Now, you should be able to move shaft to the front of the machine and to replace both body transport belts.

NOTE:
Do not loose any other screws, as for example the red marked ones in the picture.

 

After you have replaced the body transport belts, follow the above instruction in the reverse sequence.

NOTE:
When you push back the polygon shaft and clamp it, make sure that you keep a clearance of x=1mm as shown in the picture.

Scope of delivery:
1 – Insulation (over Z-bar) 2 – Insulation
3 – Cover insulation
4 – Z-bar
5 – Set of screws

 

Remove the guiding channel to side of the machine. Then remove the wire from the welding rolls and unlock the tooling plate and slide it to the front.

 

Remove the 8 screws (see arrows) from the welding arm.
Be aware that the screws at the inside are shorter than those at the outside. Do not loose the two o-rings in between.

 

Then undo the eight screws from the cover insulation. Get somebody to assist you to hold to welding arm (heavy).

 

Remove the Z-bar from the welding arm and clean the welding arm with a dry rag.

NOTE:
When you mount the new Z-bar with the insulation, make sure you put some grease on the surface of both insulations and align the Z-bar centered with the depth gauge to the welding arm.

 

IMPORTANT:
Put also some grease all around these insulated screws.

 

When you mount the welding arm, do also align the arm properly with the depth gauge to the window.

 

IMPORTANT:
When you mount the welding arm to machine, make sure you are using the shorter screws for the inside! Otherwise the ceramic guiding might get damaged. Do not forget the two o-rings!

 

We hope your replacement work was successful. Thank for your support!

Cause:

  • Check the clearance between bending wedge and upper rollformer shaft. The clearance might be bigger than 0.10 mm!

Corrective:

  • Undo on each side the two M5 (black flat head) screws, and turn the whole bending wedge support left and right, until you reach on both side the needed clearance. Lock the screws and double check the clearance with the feeler gauge. 0.05 is too small and 0.15 mm is too big, depending on the thickness range of tin plates of course.

This is the result of a wrong flexer setting!

Open the rollformer and you undo the screw on the right handside of the “Flexer”.  

Measure with a ruler the actual position of the flexing wedge.

On the other side of the flexer, you can alter the position of flexer with the M8 screw. Choose a lower position for less flexing.

NOTE:
With more flexing the sheet comes out of the flexer station with less prebending.

If you do less flexing, means that the sheet comes out of the flexer station with more prebending.

NOTE:
After adjusting the flexer, you might have to adjust the rounding slighty!
For more information regarding the flexer and rollformer setting check our manual book 2 chapter 5.4.

1 or 2 (sender/receiver) sensors are fitted behind the first pair of rollers to recognize double sheets.

 

Sensor in the lower part.

 

A pneumatic cylinder operates the ejection flap.

 

The double sheets detected by the sensor are diverted into this channel by means of a switch point.

 

Setting the double sheet sensor
B30

The evaluation unit for the double sheet sensor is located in either the control box (illustration) or in the immediate vicinity of the rollformer, on the feeder side.

 

To set the sheet thickness, take a single sheet and lay it on the support rails in front of the first roller pair. You can also open the roll- former and lay a sheet into the rear area by hand. Then close the rollformer again.

 

Now turn the single sheet back and forward in the first roller pair by hand with the help of the belt.

 

The two green LEDs „Power“ and „Relay“ should now be lit up on the evaluation unit.

 

If the red LED „Double sheet“ is lit up, you must carry out a correction.

 

Turn the left-hand screw „Thickness Adjust“ clockwise until the red LED goes out and the green LED „Relay“ lights up. Add 1-2 additional turns in the clockwise direction.

 

Now carry out the same procedure with two sheets (double sheet).

 

The red LED „Double sheet“ should now be lit up.

 

The cylinder should now also be activated. It will be reset again when the sheets are removed.

 

Do not turn the right-hand screw „Delay adjust“; this is used for the delay of the cylinder stroke.

NOTE:
You will find further details in Book 5 OEM manuals on the CD.

Possible Cause:

  1. Check air supply for the cylinder.
  2. Eject cylinder must push the canbodies inthe center, the can must move verticallyaway from eject cylinder.
  3. Second light barrier is always ON.Sensor dirty or bad adjustment.
    LED on light barrier must be ON without can, OFF if a can is detected.
  4. Control wiring of first and second light barrier according electrical diagram.
  5. Make sure the faulty can is really ejected, means does not touch the edge of the bin and jumps back.
    => Use a fixed channel underneath the eject station, instead of a mobile bin!

Adjustment of the light barrier distance to eject cylinder might be wrong.

Wrong adjustment of the transport belt speed.

NOTE:
The ejected can should whether touch the can before nor the following.

Eject pulse cylinder has to fit to production speed:

Recommendation: 150-200msfor<100cpm 100-150msfor100-200cpm

80-100msfor200-400cpm

Place a canbody between the second light barrier and check the LED „LD3“ on the eject print (inside the Pacemaker).
Must be „ON“.

The autoreset needs to be “OFF”. Therefore the can memory will not be reset automatically.

Check, if your hardware parameters are set correctly, according to one of the three layouts.
=> See layouts below!


Click here for more

Possible cause:

  • Wrong direction of rotation of the vacuum pump motor (only when machine has been disconnected from the power).
    • change phases
  • Clogged filter of the vacuum pump (or in the vacuum hose / tube).
    • replace it
  • Clogged bores in the sucker cups.
    • clean it
  • Worn sucker cups.
    • change sucker cups
  • Wrong vertical adjustment of the sucker bar.
    • see manual of welder (chapter 5.3) and learn how to adjust sucker bar upper position
  • Badly cutted blanks with lots of burrs.
    • grind / adjust cutters of slitter
  • Clogged vacuum valve.
    • clean it (see here) or replace valve (CM article No. 005925)
  • LED not “ON” when production “ON”.
    • refer to the electrical manual
  • Too tight adjustment of the blank magazine.
    • see manual of welder (chapter 5.3.) and learn how to set blank magazine correctly
  • Worn sucker rod or worn seals/bearing in the vacuum housing.
    • replace it

NOTE: Only applicable for the model X8-350!

Report all steps, new or different settings, old and new production parameters (can size, cpm, weld speed, weld current, weld frequency, current wave-form and transformer step) for an easier overview and follow-up!

Open a new ticket and add your document!
Note on which tin-plate parameters (thickness, hardness, tin coating inside / outside, rolling direction, BA or CA, supplier, printed or not) such faults occur, and on which tinplates not!

Basic parameters & settings to be checked first

  1. Tin-plates must be cutted within the allowed tolerances:
    • Measure the tin-plates and report if out of tolerance!
    • Follow sheet „blank-cutting tolerances“!(www.canman.ch/SUPPORT/Canmaking/002)
    • Are all tin-plate parameter clear and noted: Thickness, hardness, tin coating in and outside, rolling direction, BA or CA, supplier, printed or not
  2. Can-bodies must be correct rollformed:
    • Not conical and best roundness must be reached!
    • Overlap of both tin-plates edges:
      • ø52 ~ 5mm
      • ø99 ~ 15mm
      • ø153 ~ 30mm
      • ø284 ~ 60mm
  3. The copper wire must be correct profiled and the surface not damaged:
    • The width of the profiled copper wire shall always be 0.05 mm smaller than the profile-groove in the weld rollers!
    • Measure the width of the profiled copper wire within around half a meter on several position, and note the variations. Maximum difference of 0.05 mm are allowed. If you measure more, check the concentricity of the profiling rings.
    • Change the copper wire profiling rings or idler/guide wheels if the surface of the copper wire shows a damage!
  4. Both weld rolls must be regrooved after its regular groove life-span:
    • To avoid unexpected heavy weld faults it is recommended to implement the total piece-counter and the regrooving interval into the production order!
    • As an example:
      • Upper weld disc ø 90 mm to be regrooved after 3 mio cans (interval depends on, type of welder, type of weld roll and welding speed).
      • Lower weld roll ø 62 mm to be regrooved after 2 mio cans.
      • Total piece counter at production start at 28 mio welded can bodies, upper weld disc has been regrooved at 25 mio, therefore to be regrooved now! Lower weld roll regrooved at 27.5 mio, therefore to be regrooved at 29.5 mio.
    • After every regrooving weld roll and / or z-bar must be repositioned: Use the correct to reset the lower weld roll and/or nose-piece, and the upper welding roller!
  5. The z-bar must be clean in and outside – and not worn -, calibration crown must be clean, and are all pre-calibration rollers shall turning easily:
    • A dirty z-bar may not be well insulated, therefore the risk of wear is higher and the weld current is flowing over z-bar and tin-plate to the weld center!
    • Note: The insulation of the secondary circuit should be controlled yearly!
    • Non turning pre-calibration rollers can create body-offset and unconstant can gap!
  6. The calibration crown center must be correct positioned to the weld center:
    • The center of the crown must stay between 3 – 1 mm before the center of the lower weld roll (in weld direction seen).
  7. The position and speed of the exit conveyor (all conveyors which transport the can body out of the weld center) must be aligned perfectly.
    • Both belts have to touch the can body similar. The direction of the conveyor must be absolutely parallel to weld direction!
    • The gap between two can bodies on the exit conveyor should not be higher than10 – 20 mm! (if can gap is 1.5 – 3.0; see „can gap“ in point 12.)
    • A driven diabolo roller must run the same speed like the copper wire!
  8. Both tin-layers must be centered and parallel on the copper wire:
    • That means that all mechanical settings are correct!
  9. The copper wire tension and elongation must be correct:
    • Make sure that the air-pressures for the pneumatical cylinders are set correct, or the copper wire is in the right groove of the wire drive disc (Soudronic m/c’s only).
    • Measure the copper wire elongation after the lower weld roll, or after the weld roll before the wire chopper: Elongation varies between 0 – 4% of the can body height.
    • A sufficient copper wire tension is important to avoid a sliping copper wire on the weld rolls!
  10. The can body overtravel must fit:
    • Set the overtravel according manual / scale on the transport carriage!
    • Measure how many mm the can body will be pushed over the center of the weld rolls.
  11. The welding pressure must be set correct:
    • Welding pressure for Wima welders vary between 35 and 50 kg / daN. Start with ~ 45 kg / daN. Check the manual to convert in bars.
    • 50 Hz welder using welding pressures between 35 – 45 kg/daN, while automatic welders running between 40 – 50 kg / daN.
  12. The welded overlap must be correct, and on begin and end within allowed tolerance:
    • Correct welded overlap depending on z-bar:
      • Z-bar of 0.4 mm results in a welded overlap of 0.5 – 0.6 mm
      • Z-bar of 0.6 mm results in a welded overlap of 0.7 – 0.8 mm
      • Z-bar of 0.8 mm results in a welded overlap of 0.9 – 1.0 mm
    • If the overlap is not correct, adjust until overlap is correct:
      • Reset the calibration crown if needed with the mandrel. The diabolo-rollers should not have any radial-play!
      • Adjust the overlap according manual.
    • Once the overlap has been set, double check and set the can gap. Increasing the overlap will reduce the can gap, decreasing the overlap will increase the can gap.
    • Weld around 5 cans and measure the gap between the tin-layers. A good can gap measures between 1.5 – 3.0 mm. Any variation should be within 0.5 – 1.0 mm.
  13. The weld current frequency must fit:
    • Welders with a static frequeny inverter should have a welding spot length between 0.6 – 1.2 mm.
    • A welder without static frequency inverter should be operated between 8 – 12 m/min. Reducing the welding speed does decrease the welding spot length.
    • The welding spot lenght should always be as long as possible (by reducing the frequency) to reduce energy and heat in the welding seam and in the welder to a minimum.
    • Main target must be a flexible and smooth welding seam!
  14. The main weld current must be set correct!
    • How to do:
      • Reduce weld current until cold weld zones appear. Tear-off test must be done at an angle of 30 – 45°, means try to pull-off the top tin plate edge. To be done from each side. Note the weld current value!
      • Increase weld current until hot weld appears. Tear-off test must be done at an angle of 0°, means pull-off the seam only and find out when the seam starts to become fragile. Note the weld current value!
      • Add 2/3 of the weld current difference between cold and hot weld seam to the cold weld seam value, and start the production!
    • Set beginning and end time and beginning and end current!
    • Note: If the welder is running with triangle wave-form, make sure the duty-cycle is between 80 – 90%. If the welder is running with sine wave-form, make sure the right transformer step has been choosen! Contact us if you are not sure.
  15. The seam-extrusion inside and outside must be equal!
    • If the seam extrusion is bigger inside, reduce the height of the calibration crown. If the seam extrusion is bigger outside, increase the height of the calibration crown.
    • The shape or roundness of the can-body is not so important as a correct seam-extrusion!
    • The seam extrusion inside depend on the inner weld roll diameter as well: The diameter difference of upper and lower weld roll should be as small as possible.

 

Checklist to avoid micro leaks

Micro leaks can occur within the seam and beside the seam – especially on cold-formed areas like necking, beading, flanging or seaming -, even if all above mentioned basic parameters & settings seems to be correct.
Micro leaks can have various sources: Wrong settings on the welder, tin-plate parameters which support such faults, worn or wrong machineries in the downline, or tin-plate parameters which do not fit to beader, necker, flanger and seamer.

For a better visual understanding put the faulty-can bodies in a water bath, and inspect the leaking area by a microscope. Store the pictures if possible!

  1. Make sure that necker, flanger, beader and seamer are in good conditon, and do not stress the weld seam more than needed.
    • For further information check the manuals (check the tin-plate specifications range) or contact the supplier!
  2. Try to weld different tin-plates to understand which tin-plate parameter can be produced without such faults.
    • Rolling-direction parallel to weld seam can increase the occurence of micro-leaks!
  3. Micro-leaks in and near the seam can be reduced by changing the energy in each welding spot:
    • Reduce the welding frequency within the possible range (see point 13. in above checklist), and set the main weld current again (see point 14. in above checklist). The production cycle (cpm) must probably be reduced to reach a good weld seam. Produce a certain number of cans and test them.
    • Increase the welding frequency within the possible range, and set the current again. Produce a certain number of cans and test them.
    • Reduce the welding pressure to max 45 kg / daN, and set the main weld current again (see point 14. in above checklist). Produce a certain number of cans and test them.
    • Reduce the welded overlap by around 0.10 mm, and set the main weld current (see point 14. in above checklist). Produce a certain number of cans and test them.
  4. If above listed does not help, some theoretically wrong settings could help:
    • Increase the can gap to have completely different welded begin and end. Produce a certain number of cans and test them, and set back if it didn’t helped!
    • Set a slight can-body offset, to bring the current different into the tin-plate. Produce a certain number of cans and test them, and set back if it didn’t helped!

 

Download print version

  • Empty the water tank. On 2-circuit cooling unit only cold water tank has to be emptied.
  • Blow off one by one each cooling circuit in the welder. This allows to empty each circuit separately. If your welder has a 2-circuit cooling system only the circuit for the lower and upper weld roll has to be emptied.
  • Change the filter cartridge and clean the filter housing inside.
  • Fill the tank with water only, open main valve Y14, and run the system for at least one hour to flush rests of old emulsion out.
  • Empty the water tank again and clean again if necessary.
  • Fill the water tank with water (or distilled water if requested), and mix the PowerRoll™ coolant H1 in with 8 percent.

We recommend following maintenance procedures:

  • Change the filter cartridge monthly.
  • Change the cooling emulsion yearly. Use the PowerRoll™ cooling system cleaner at any time you change the emulsion.
  • Use the PowerRoll™ cooling system decalcer after around 5 years.

Order numbers:

  • PowerRoll™ coolant H1 (food grade), 7 Liter, 011494
  • PowerRoll™ cooling system cleaner H1 (food grade), 10 Liter, 011495
  • PowerRoll™ cooling system decalcer, 25 kg, 011496
  • Filter cartridge 50 µm, 002446

Safety data sheets see below:

  • Check first whether the conveyor / elevator unit is blocked somewhere!
  • Check the 24 VDC fuse according electrical diagram. Make sure that the correct size will be used!
  • Check the setting of the respective sensor (according electrical diagram), which allows the conveyor to move if the sensor is active / free!
  • Take the 24 VDC motor out, and check whether the motor is defective or not! Make sure that the conveyor is not moving downwards as soon as the mechanical connection between motor and elevator unit has been released!

P03 = positioning countering error

Possible causes:

  • Resolver on the backside of the bodytransport motor is damaged.
    • Check if the bearings are worn out!
  • Resolver is not fixed well on the shaft.
    • Fix it!
  • Wire break in the cable between resolver and servo controller.
    • Check the cable!

Maintenance, cleaning and insulation check (can be used in general for any welder)

Procedure:

  •   Recommended to be done when the main Z-bar has to be changed anyway
  •   Time to do: 4 – 8 hours for 1 person
  •   Turn the main switch off, make sure the water cooling unit is also off!
  •   Take off the copper wire completely.
  •   Take off internal side seam tubes or internal oxyde tube.

 Tubes have to be insulated in the area of rollformer, to avoid any contact to the ground.

(In the area of the lower welding arm is a simple insulation not possible).
− Take off the grounding cable from the lower copper plate going to the welding transformer

    (Do not forget to place back after you finish).
− Clean the whole secondary circuit as good as possible by rag and compressed air.
 Blow from rollformer side towards overhead exit conveyor, to protect the bearings in the rollformer.

  •   Take off the lower welding arm.
  •   Dismount the main Z-bar including front nosepiece.
  •   Clean both Z-bars, the Z-bar slot in the arm carefully, without using grinding paper, to avoid increasing theinternal width!
  •   Check internal/external full ceramic cross bars for damages, no need to take them off, if they are ok.
  •   Clean the contact surface between arm and the copper plate going to the welding transformer with grindingpaper 400.
  •   Use a little flat plate and fold the grinding paper around.
  •   Not a must but recommended: Lubricate one of the contact surfaces slightly by copper grease(to avoid humidity in between. If you decide to do, do it on all other contacts)
  •   Check the O-Ring (to be done also on all following ones)

− Mount the Z-bar back into the arm and measure the insulation by Ohm-meter > 10 Mega Ohm!

  •   We recommend to use a special heat compound to guarantee a better heat transfer from the Z-bar to thewater cooled welding arm!
  •   We recommend to use new insulation washers (recommended also on all others).
  •   Check the little yellow full ceramic idler wheel in front of the lower welding roller, make sure screws/nutsare locked, and the circlip is not missing!
  •   Clean also the upper slot in the upper power plate.
  •   Take off the top copper plate between welding transformer and upper power plate (support of the lowerwelding arm). Clean the plate and the brown insulation plate (take care, can easily be broken).
  •   Clean all areas around the upper power plate, especially the area between power plate and copper plategoing to the welding transformer. This area is difficult to reach, when the lower arm is build in.
  •   Clean both areas between upper power plate and the main alumimium plate (devided by two brown

insulation plates).

  •   Clean the area around the big copper plate (going around the shaft of the upper pendulum rollerhead).
  •   Check following insulations (Ohm-meter > 10 Mega Ohm): Each idler wheel to the aluminium plate.

 Check also every bearing. Attention: Most of them have ceramic balls, marked by a red point!

  •   Each body of the copper profiling unit to the aluminium plate.
  •   The body of the big cooling wheel to the aluminium plate.
  •   The twin idler wheels (between rollformer and upper power plate) between itself but also to the aluminiumplate.
  •   Both transport rings, cutting wheel and pressing bearing/ roll of the wire chopper to the aluminium plate(clean up before may be helpful).
  •   The upper power plate to the main aluminium plate.
  •   The front support of the pendulum rollerhead to the aluminium plate.
  •   The welding pressure cylinder to the supporting plate.
  •   The main aluminium plate to the machine frame.
  •   The pendulum rollerhead to the machine frame.
  •   Calibration crown: Clean the calibration crown first.
  •   Each diabolo roller to the main brass plate.
  •   Support of guidance channel/calibration crown:
  •   Take off the whole canbody guidance including the long aluminium supporting plate (T-shape).
  •   Clean the whole area.
  •   Check the insulation between the long steel guide plate and its supports mounted to the frame:Three brown insulation plates underneath the long steel guide plate.
    Two separate brown insulation plates underneath a long steel bar (30/60 x 40 x 400 mm), to be found on the machine frame, in the area below the calibration crown.
  •   Put now back all parts.

 Make sure you are using only stainless steel screws and washers and lubricate the threads again!

Possible cause:

  1. Take out the bottom gear inside.
  2. Take out both gears outside (motor side).
  3. Adjust the inlet shaft clearance 0.10 mm.
  4. Mount both gears outside again.
  5. Move the upper gear outside laterally, till you feel a play between the teeth of both gears!
  6. Don’t mount the bottom gear inside anymore, you don’t need it!
  7. Lubricate the gears outside with a special gear lubricant (can be ordered from Can Man / article No. 006950).

Possible cause:

  • The movement (the back and forth) of the wire and the final wire break happens, because the analog signal is right on the threshold to start. You can solve the problem, when you increase the „Hertz“ setting of the frequency converters U4 and U6.
    • Place the programming display on the converter U4 and change the parameter C19 from 5Hz to 7Hz, and do the same for the converter U6.
  • A second reason for this phenomena could be the incorrect position of the analog sensors B1 and B2, see the following description, which is explained for the CMX8, but is valid also for the other automatic welders.